Fragrances With Friends

Forest FaeryCat’s journey as a fragrance lover began in childhood, captivated by her grandmother’s collection of gentle floral scents. This early exposure sparked a lifelong love affair with perfume, particularly natural fragrances.

Our paths crossed in an online group dedicated to the work of natural perfumer Teone Reinthal. Forest FaeryCat’s enthusiasm for natural fragrances quickly intrigued me, revealing a depth and complexity in this area of perfumery I hadn’t anticipated.

In this interview, ForestFaeryCat dives deep into the captivating world of natural perfumery. We’ll explore the inspiration behind her passion, the nuanced characteristics of natural scents, and the makers who craft these works of art. She also tackles common misconceptions surrounding natural fragrances, dispelling myths about their longevity and complexity. Whether you’re a seasoned perfume aficionado or a curious newcomer, this conversation offers valuable insights and practical advice for navigating the world of natural perfumery.

Prepare to have your senses piqued. Join us as we embark on an exploration of natural fragrances.

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How did your fascination with the world of fragrance begin?

My love for fragrance started in childhood when I lived in Taiwan. My grandma, who practically raised my brother and me, always smelled light and beautiful. I remember the scent of violets and other soft florals. She had beautiful bottles of floral waters on her vanity, and I was always drawn to them, wanting to grab and smell them. Grandma was also an avid gardener. My brother and I spent countless happy hours with her as she tended her vegetables and flowers. Those positive memories set the tone for my future fragrance obsession. 

It wasn’t until high school, around age 15, that I started wearing fragrances. I had moved to Texas and the small town where I lived had a Dillard’s department store with a perfume counter. I remember the day I discovered the first fragrance I bought for myself: Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse (then called Champagne). I sniffed it on a magazine sample strip and went straight to Dillards to buy it.

When did you develop an interest in natural perfumes?

During my early teens, my mom worked as an esthetician and had a variety of high grade essential oils, such as lavender and rose, that she used for aromatherapy. I would ask her about them and she warned me to be careful sniffing them straight because they were so concentrated. Those little bottles were my first introduction to natural scents.

Later, as an adult, my interest in fragrance grew and I became aware of the regulations affecting natural ingredients in commercially produced perfumes. These ingredients were becoming harder to find. This sparked a desire to move beyond popular designer and niche brands and explore perfume houses that specialize in crafting perfumes using these carefully chosen and sourced natural ingredients.

Are there any common misconceptions about natural fragrances you would like to clear up?

Yes. First, some people think naturals don’t last long on the skin. But longevity really depends on the brand and the perfume’s specific blend. Animalic notes, for example, tend to linger longer than florals and citruses. It really varies. Don’t write off naturals based on assumptions – try some and see for yourself.

Second, some people think naturals are boring. I used to believe this too – that naturals were limited because there are only so many natural ingredients. But talented perfumers can create incredibly complex and interesting fragrances using natural materials.

Are there any natural perfumers or brands whose work you particularly admire?

There are several that stand out:

• Envoyage by Shelley Waddington: Shelley creates a variety of fragrances, and her gourmands are spectacular. My favorite from Envoyage is Cafe Cacao, which has coffee, chocolate, roses, and beach-combed ambergris. I can smell a milky foam with roast sugar on top. It’s stunning.
• Velvet & Sweet Peas Purrfumery: This perfumery is located in San Francisco. I was attracted to the way they do rose and citrus. My favorite from this house is a fragrance called Luminous Lemurs (she donates much of the proceeds to an environmental conservation charity Madagascar). This perfume is citrusy, and joyful. The citrus lasts from the top all the way to the end and stays bright the whole time.
• Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH: This house does a mix of naturals and synthetics. She does natural vanillas really well. There are so many different ways of interpreting vanilla: spicy, gourmand, boozy. My favorite from her line is Vanilla Chantilly, a which is light and creamy, just like lace. I also adore Dark Moon, a chocolate chypre.
• Teone Reinthal: This Australian natural perfumer is a newer discovery for me. I’m particularly impressed by the way she handles patchouli. My favorite of those is Mokaya Chocolatl. It’s earthy, dark, and has some fascinating mushroomy and soil-like elements that I find captivating. She makes a wide variety of scents and I’m trying to pace myself.
• Papillon Artisan Perfumes: I freaking adore this house. My favorite of her creations is Salome, without a doubt. It’s so skanky. I have three bottles of different ages and they’re all different colors. I love to watch the natural progression of the ingredients.
• Rania J.: This French house offers a handful of perfumes, all very high quality. Rose Ishtar is a stand-out for me. It a bright, happy citrus rose, with a sticky, sugary, buttered popcorn note underneath. I find it mouthwatering.
• Tsvga Parfums: This house emphasizes naturals, particularly animalics, in a way that feels enchanting and wild. Fiona (5th edition) is one of my favorites, featuring red champaca combined with leather and very wearable oud. Another favorite is Strawberry Seduction, an airy, watery strawberry scent, inspired by (but not at all like) the strawberry lotions popular in the 1990s. Unfortunately this house is closing.
• Alchemy Works: This is a ritual supplies maker who creates incense, oils, and other products from all natural products. They make an oil called Strawberry Moon, which smells very similar to Strawberry Seduction.
• Rosarium Blends: An herbal apothecary who gathers and makes everything she sells. She makes ritual oils that wear like perfumes. I enjoy Dom, a smoky vanilla scent, meant to give the wearer a feeling of confidence and control.

You also collect raw perfume ingredients. Are there any in particular that draw you in?

Roses are the ingredient I collect most. I’ve always loved them for their incredible diversity. There are so many varieties, each with its own scent profile. Some have a cooling menthol effect, while others are warm and fruity, spicy, or velvety and deep. I have samples of rose otto, rose absolute, and even Taif rose (which is very pricey). In my garden, I grow Rose de Mai and tea roses.

Oud is another ingredient that fascinates me. I collect different varieties in small chips. I was exposed to oud at temples when I was growing up and it has complex cultural significance for me. Violet also holds a special place in my heart because it reminds me of my grandma.

Is there an emotion you would like to capture in a fragrance?

For me, roses are a love language. Throughout much of human history and across cultures, roses have reigned supreme as the flower of love, their scent capturing this emotion in all its facets.

I don’t need to find a way to capture this feeling in a fragrance because I’ve already found it in Ottoman Empire IV by Areej le Doré. The rose notes in this perfume are not your typical, fresh and dewy roses: they’re soft, caramelized, jammy and powdery. For me, Ottoman Empire IV  isn’t just a scent, it’s a multifaceted experience of love. It can be comforting, like a warm hug on a chilly day, or evoke a deep sense of gratitude. But it also has a passionate, sexy, sensual side. It’s gorgeous in all its moods and seems to adapt itself to what I need. 

For me, perfume goes beyond smelling good. It’s a form of self-care, a way to elevate my mood and connect with myself on a deeper level. Ottoman Empire IV excels in all these aspects, and that’s what makes it one of the most treasured fragrances in my collection.

What are your favorite perfumes?

My current holy grail fragrance is Berceau De Ma Joie, a rose and oud oil by Henry Jacques. This is French high-end perfumery at its finest. The composition and ingredients are unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. It’s in a league of its own, even surpassing Ensar Oud, which leans more towards a spiritual, meditative experience. Berceau De Ma Joi opens with a touch of funky oud, but then the rose takes center stage, enveloping and mellowing everything out. Despite its richness, the many facets of the rose remain distinct and captivating. This is, without a doubt, my number one.

My number two is No. 9 d’Igor, also by Henry Jacques. This is a chypre fragrance, a scent profile I adore, that centers around leather with a touch of rose. However, the real star of the show is orange blossom, a white floral that can easily veer into juvenile territory if not handled with care. D’Igor avoids this pitfall, elevating the orange blossom into another realm.

Ottoman Empire IV rounds out my top three.

Based on smell, I suspect all of these perfumes are made with a high proportion of naturals, but I don’t know for sure.

Are there any trends you’re watching in natural perfumery?

One thing I appreciate about natural perfumery is its resistance to mainstream trends. These perfumers remain dedicated to naturals despite increasing external constraints, such as regulations that are making them harder to find. Big brands like Guerlain and Dior are moving towards synthetics, which are fine, but there’s something special about naturals.

My biggest concern is twofold: keeping the art of natural perfumery alive and making sure ingredients are sourced ethically. Sustainable practices are crucial to avoid harming the environment or animals. Thankfully, smaller independent houses like Areej le Doré prioritize these aspects.

The downside? Because these houses are small, and because the ingredients are rare and precious, they can only produce small batches, which means their fragrances can be quite expensive. It’s a trade-off, but a worthwhile one in my opinion.

What tips do you suggest to someone who wants to explore the world of natural perfumery?

I suggest two main approaches:

1. Start with the source: Immerse yourself in the natural world by visiting botanical gardens, greenhouses, or even your local park. Smell flowers, herbs, and trees in their natural state. This will help you build a foundation for understanding raw, unadulterated scents. If you encounter something unfamiliar, research it to learn more. This connection with nature can be a source of inspiration.
2. Dive right in: There are many talented natural perfumers and you can rely them to be your guides. Trust their expertise and enjoy what they have to show you. Dive in and explore as much as you can.

Keep accessibility and budget in mind when choosing your exploration method. Option one is a cheaper place to start.

In addition, don’t forget to tap into the expertise of the online fragrance community. These groups are a wonderful resource. There are people around the world with many different experiences of fragrance, and many of them may have already tried and have knowledge of the perfumes you want to try.

All images have been provided courtesy of ForestFaeryCat. Even those glorious roses.

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